As I stated earlier, the spark knock seemed to start right after having the auto-trans rebuilt coincidence? Engine Performance problem 1993 Chevy S-10 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive 198K miles My 'check engine light' is on. As far as location I only posted what I found, havent replaced too many of them! I'm getting really confused, to the point that i may consider carbed setup. This vehicle needs to last me a while. Or will it go off after the issue is resolved. I just cant locate the module or any direction on wiring the connector's wire into the harness and how it connects to the module. Let us know what you find there. Unbeknownst to me, one of the tabs was broken off prior to me looking at it, and the heat cycles made it brittle, so it'd lose contact sometimes.
At least there's a lot of good information in this thread for other people with problematic 4. The intake leaks coolant at the pass front, so I'm now leaning towards a possible intake vacuum leak causing the problems. I swapped in an ign. You may have to drill some that came with a dry hole on the top and convert others by drilling and tapping a second hole in order to have enough heads. I ususally either hot wire the fuel pump relay, or find the test lead, but in this case, i think I'll just drop the tank to save time. It's still there currently haha. It's located around the distributor towards the back of the engine.
Edit: the 1 inch circular thing the sensor itself is connected right onto the outside of the engine itself. Then pour the rest into the tube. It really seems to run like a 3. And what cam would anyone recommend for a roughish idle, good sound and good power, really appreciate your help. Light came on and I swung by autozone for them to read it and they said it was the knock sensor. I am wondering what the 'next step would be? Seems like the symptoms of the knock sensor to me.
Typically if the lower intake gasket leaks vacuum, it only affects one cylinder and causes a noticeable misfire all the time. I know these are problematic, but I'd like to be able to prove the problem before I spend more of his money on hope. After an hour or so start it up and drive it around. Pay close attention to the knock sensor reading. We have worked hard to design a site that caters to everyones Chevy S10 Knock Sensor needs. So any helpful advice here is greatly appreciated.
What was the code no? It's in the worst spot possible let me tell you. However just disconnecting it will cause a code 43. Most of the time was trying to locate it. The later year models have the single knock sensor mounted in the engine block in front of the starter. I'm sure if I wait fifteen min it'll start right back up.
Anyway, I did come into some new information. It has a picture, but it's not there on a 4x4. I have a 1994 s10 short with 5 speed 4. Does that point to anything else? My vehicle is sitting in my garage with a major short to ground, so I prayed for a little help and viola!. Once you get the treatment done you will want to change the oil and filter. Thanks ~Semper Fi~ I found rocker arm monkey's on ebay! Sometimes after that it won't even start until it's given time to either cool down or reset.
All fuel-injected Chevrolet trucks with gas engines as opposed to diesel engines use a knock sensor. To keep the engine in best shape best gas mileage! Off top of my head, the aldl ecm wire, would need to be sent to behind the glove box, or cut off at that point if thats where it runs, crap like that. The only difference I have found so far is the new engines knock sensor is a two wire and the old engine is one wire. I'm wondering about crank sensor? Be very careful as the wire clips are brittle and will easily break. Update: Put in a new O2 sensor, owner said it was due anyway, no change. The check engine light is still 'on' as well. Depends on the year, either on the side of the intake 1999, newer 2003 up? I wandered off for a few minutes and tried to start it again and then it wouldn't even fire.
Post Reply above is the diagram for the 2003 4. The right head must have at least one wet hole in the bottom location. There are a place for another sensor just above where the knock sensor goes but these are for other sensors. The knock sensors yes there are two are located on either side of the motor 4. The knock sensor is a simple item. You can carefully remove it from the bottom of the distributor by removing the two screws and unplugging the wire clips, and have it bench tested at some of the better Auto Parts stores. Can someone give me an idea of where the Knock Sensor is located on my 95 Blazer 4x4 V6 W in the Vin? Thanks again for your help and any advice.