Any suggestions on what i should do. It could also be a ground problem or connections that are bad. I don't know for sure yet as the place which sent it sent me a body control module as well as sending me the newer than 1999 style rounded tail lights. It stays lit all the time, but when it's in 4wheel only the back wheels will spin. I've never driven the truck prior to today so no clue if it worked before.
I have a 92 that has a completely different dash. I am not sure how the front end is actuated on this truck, I had an S-10 that locked the front halfshafts with vacuum, there was a vacuum switch on the transfer case that ran to a diaphragm to pull a cable. Try reheating them with a gun or adding some if you careful! The best thing to do is to check to see ifyour front axle is getting the power at the actuator and if it is good power not weak power or low voltage. Looks like the T case is fine after all, so it's probably the actuator, right? Please can anyone help me. Flushed and drained the system and refilled. The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage.
Maybe a subscription at this link will make it easier for you. After I try engaging for the 2nd time all lights will go and service 4wd lights comes up in the message center. Any help would be great. The chec engien light is. That can also happen from lo to high.
If no 4x4 after the actuator, repl the vacuum switch On the fullsize, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum. Does the system in this video apply to my vehicle as well? A few susgestions would be to get all four wheels off the ground and support on jack stands. Drive Train Axles Bearings problem 2000 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic Have a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 2500. Sometimes, the light for the 'service 4x4' comes on and I can't switch between 2 wheel and 4 wheel. Anyway - symptoms Clicking Transfer Case Control Module - I can hear it under dash a click, click, click, click-click, click, etc and this also corresponds with lights on the dash in most cases. Your '96 may be different.
A soleniod, an actuator, Ive heard of an encoder moder? If the shaft is spinning but the wheels aren't it is likely a bad front axle actuator. I replaced the vacuum valve on top of the transmission. It is a stupid place to put it but the first place to look for trouble. You have to pull the door panel off and take the power door lock actuator out and replace it. Is that hard to replace? Any help would be appreciated, thx. It wasnt until i removed it and repaired it that it never went out again.
If it fluctuated, the diaphram is shot. Do you know if this specific model ties the brake sensor into the speedo?. When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator. Oh well--I know it's the original, and it lasted 12 years and 140k+, so that's pretty good life. Believe it or not, I'm not having very many issues with the truck considering it sat in a garage full of critters for almost 10 years! I have not owned a electronic 4 wheel transfer case before and need some advise.
The module is usually located in the passenger foot well kick panel. This leads me to believe it is either the heater control or there is no coolant getting to the heater core. I replaced the vacuum actuator underneath the battery tray. If it's not the actuator, what else could it possibly be? I took it in to the shop repeatedly and after replacing all the vacuum hoses they still could not figure it out. I called the shop that did the clutch and they're not sure, but asked me to bring it in. Also here is the encoder location. If it's shifted into 4wd by a shift lever your linkage may have come apart.
That can cause engage and disengage issues but not likely the issue here. I just bought a 2003 Chevy Blazer and was sad to find out when I got it home that the 4×4 did not work. Then later, when I start the engine, the light stays off and I can operate the 4X4. I'd imagine one wire is a power supply and the other is a return wire with resistance based on the vehicle speed? Took it to the dealer and they hooked it to their computer and they said I needed a transfer case motor. After many operations these rivets will elongate andthe travel of the actuator is not always enough to make up forthat. Same if it is electrical, something that didn't get reconnected after the clutch fix.
What was so wrong with a standard fall-off type rotor? The actuator wasn't made to keep expanding and contracting and the differential doesn't like it either, you will develop other problems. Using your diagrams I found that I did not have power to the orange wire on the plug with the encoder motor control wires when I Supply that wire with power I got it to shift out of 2 wheel drive into 4 wheel drive however now it is stuck in 4-wheel drive high or automatic four-wheel drive and will not shift back out and now my service 4X4 light is on I would remove the encoder and then with it our move the switch and watch it work to make sure it is working properly. Mine had the wires rotted off. The steering wheel will have to be remo … ved as well as the steering wheel locking plate and blinker housing. I am a middle aged woman who has done only limited auto repair. Cant i remove the transfercase and bolt the driveshaft right to the trans? Thanks, Phil Phil, No problem.
The light never went on, and I could tell it never engaged still could spin the rear tires. There was a clog somewhere and now its gone. My button takes a few minutes to light up on 4hi, but will eventually light up. The brakes have worn into it so badly that portions of the fins are actually missing! This can be tested by disconnecting the pump and using a compressor in its place. Pull the boot loose inspect the wires and repair any that appear wore through.